Here's the Regency suit plan so far. I started a Pinterest board
for men's Regency stuff and I've been thinking about available styles. Once again, this is not my favorite period, but I guess I will try to skew a little earlier.
I showed some examples to The Man and he gave me his opinions. His preference for single vs. double breasted, cutaway tail shapes, lapel width, etc. He has some strong opinions! No problem with short pants, but puffy sleeves are absolutely verboten.
I also identified what I want to emphasize as the defining characteristics of the era (1810-ish):
High, fold-down collars
Wide, M-notch lapels
Light-colored waistcoat and breeches with dark coat, in 3 different fabrics
Cutaway coat with smooth, narrow tails
Neatness and austerity
I think that's enough to make it look Regency vs. 18th century, even if I make other adjustments.
As for the waist placement, I will keep it well under the fullest part of his body and play with exact placement in the mock-up stage. Suspenders will be a must. I realize now that the terrifying cameltoe
you see in so many portraits and fashion plates is a result of the tension from suspenders! I had the same problem with my man a few years ago when I tried to fit his 18th c breeches with suspenders. The crotch wrinkled crazily and looked weird and wrong. But now I guess that's the look I'm trying to create, alas.
squares and gussets cut
small frill at front slit opening
high collar worn turned up
neck and cuff buttons & loops
Use Cut of Men's Clothes patternBreeches
Use J P Ryan pattern as a base
Raise waist in front
Reduce fullness in rear
Fit with suspenders
Make front fall opening narrower?Waistcoat
Keep waist as high as possible without looking stupid
Standing collar and lapels
Buttons left open 1/3 down from top
Waist slightly higher than waistcoat
High fold-down collar
Rounded (concave) cutaway
Very slight fullness in sleeve capColors
My man will absolutely never wear white apart from his shirt, so the whole white pants/vest
thing that seemed so popular is out. But I think we can compromise on some light colors.
Lightcolored breeches – grey, buff, beige
Lightcolored waistcoat – grey, cream, buff
Dark coat – navy blue, black