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More of the Tudor Tailor project for the Man:
When I started the project last year, I enlarged/drafted/altered the basic early doublet pattern. It went through 3 mockups. I saved the third and tried it on him again the other day. It looked fine. So I cut it in the silk, interlining, and lining and sewed the outer layer(s) together.
Went to put the sleeve (mockup) into the armscye and found the sleeve seam is smaller than the armscye seam. Ok, fine, I thought, I'll either adjust the sleeve seam before I cut the silk, or I will take in the shoulder seam of the doublet a little. So I measured both seams to determine the amount of adjustment.
Here's the shocker: the armscye is 25 inches!! How could I possibly have let that happen? My hubby does have quite broad, full shoulders, but that's still a ton of ease. 3 mockups and I still have this huge error.
If I didn't have to get a sleeve into this armscye, it wouldn't be a problem. But now I don't know how I can make it work. I'm going to try the doublet on him to see if I can take it in anywhere. If not I'll have to scrap it and I'm back to square one.
On the plus side, I did end up finding a lining in the stash: a silk/cotton sateen that I ripped out of the first 18th century coat I made for him (and eventually scrapped). There was enough to cut the doublet lining without piecing, and the colors even went together. If I need to re-cut the doublet front, I may just piece the lining a little to make it work. There are tons of scraps.
When I started the project last year, I enlarged/drafted/altered the basic early doublet pattern. It went through 3 mockups. I saved the third and tried it on him again the other day. It looked fine. So I cut it in the silk, interlining, and lining and sewed the outer layer(s) together.
Went to put the sleeve (mockup) into the armscye and found the sleeve seam is smaller than the armscye seam. Ok, fine, I thought, I'll either adjust the sleeve seam before I cut the silk, or I will take in the shoulder seam of the doublet a little. So I measured both seams to determine the amount of adjustment.
Here's the shocker: the armscye is 25 inches!! How could I possibly have let that happen? My hubby does have quite broad, full shoulders, but that's still a ton of ease. 3 mockups and I still have this huge error.
If I didn't have to get a sleeve into this armscye, it wouldn't be a problem. But now I don't know how I can make it work. I'm going to try the doublet on him to see if I can take it in anywhere. If not I'll have to scrap it and I'm back to square one.
On the plus side, I did end up finding a lining in the stash: a silk/cotton sateen that I ripped out of the first 18th century coat I made for him (and eventually scrapped). There was enough to cut the doublet lining without piecing, and the colors even went together. If I need to re-cut the doublet front, I may just piece the lining a little to make it work. There are tons of scraps.
