HB doublet

I decided to take a step back and alter the doublet pattern for the armscye issue.  

It was way too big because it was cut too far back.  I think I've already ranted about this, but here it is anyway:  The idea with the narrow back/broad front in historic clothing is that you pull your shoulders back and stand super-erect to fit the garment.  Well, my man can't stand that way, or won't, so instead his garment is just ill-fitting and icky looking.

However, the more I alter for fit, the less the pattern looks like the source.  I start with lovely extant garment diagrams and end up with pattern shapes that look like they came from Simplicity.  The garment fits and looks nice, but I'm not sure if it really counts as historically-based anymore.

The issue this time involved moving the side back seam forward quite a lot.  I didn't see how I could possibly add the width I needed to the back armscye without moving that seam at least 2 inches forward.  So I did, and now the seam is practically under the arm, but it fits.

( Before and After photos )

The problem now is that I've already cut the silk.  I have enough left to re-cut, but I think I might just piece a crescent into the armscye instead.  At least I have a pattern that works, and I can use it again in the future, and to cut the jerkin to go over this.