Pleats

The first item on the hand-sewing list: cartridge pleats for L's dress.

I forgot how much I love doing these.  They are so much quicker than flat pleats and much more adjustable without taking the whole thing apart.  And I love the way they look.

The fabric is silk noil (her choice) lined with plain cotton and padded out with cotton batting.  Ever since the padded petticoat, this is my favorite method of adding fullness for this era.  Plus reading so many period references to "skirts with wadding" has made me feel like I'm doing something right.