two handsewn petticoats

#1: Under petticoat. Linen/cotton handsewn with linen thread (Londonderry 100).



I used two panels of 58" wide linen/cotton. The seams are sewn with about 6-7 running stitches per inch and the occasional backstitch. I know this sounds huge but Costume Close-Up indicates this is typical, and it was really the smallest I could easily get with this thread.

I had to cut the selvages off because they had a dark blue thread woven in which shadowed through the white. So I turned the seam allowances in like a French seam and whipped them. The hem is about 3/8" and sewn with slanted hemming stitches.

#2: Woven-stripe lawn petticoat. Cotton handsewn with cotton thread.



I sewed this one about 8-9 running stitches per inch, with an occasional backstitch. Still looked huge to me, but it was easier to make the stitches smaller with a finer thread. I left the selvages intact but made wide seam allowances so I could hide the ugly parts. The hem is 1/4", sewn with slanted hemming stitches.

I used three panels for this because the fabric was narrower (about 50" after washing) so I couldn't place the pocket slits on a seam, and had to slash through the middle of a panel. I folded the edges down as tiny as I could, hemmed them, then used buttonhole stitch all around the base to neaten it. Finally I made a little thread bar that I buttonhole-stitched over to prevent the pocket slit pulling apart and tearing.



Here's a shot of the pleats too just for fun.



These took me about 2.4 times as long to make as I had hoped. And my hand sewing looks much crappier than I had hoped as well. I know it doesn't have to be perfect, and wonky stitches are historically accurate, and I am not a machine, but still. Don't anybody get too close to these, ok? Because if you start to scrutinize my stitches, you will just feel sorry for me.

One other thing. After about 5 days of handsewing, my underneath fingers were really starting to feel it. I normally tend to graze my needle slightly on my underneath finger when making a stitch, especially running stitch. It hasn't bothered me before, but I haven't had to do this much running stitch before, and this time they were getting all torn up. I tried using another thimble on that finger, but it was too clunky. I tried putting a little patch of masking tape on my finger, but the needle stuck.

Eventually I got sick of it, looked up ideas, and found the Under Thimble.



We don't have them at work so I went on an expedition to the city next door, a.k.a. Minneapolis, to Glad Creations, a charming, tiny little quilting shop.

This thing is a GAME. CHANGER. I feel so silly for not trying to find this sooner. I put it on the middle finger of my left hand and the needle slid against it as I stitched. It made stitching much faster and more comfortable. I wish I could say my stitches were neater, too, but alas. It isn't magic.

I am curious to see how many times I can re-use the adhesive. So far I've applied and removed the under thimble 3 or 4 times and it continues to stick just fine. It sticks so well I never worried about it falling off while cutting, ironing, or doing other tasks. I can see why it's a quilting notion because running stitch is when you would most need that guard.

So today I can finally start the gown itself. 12 days to the event. Can I do this?