A new dress
Aug. 25th, 2014 11:40 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
elizabeth_mnI finished this dress last week, but couldn't take photos because I lost the piece of my tripod that the camera attaches to. I finally talked my HB into taking some photos, but then I somehow dumped an entire cup of laundry soap all over myself before he could.
So, one week and one new tripod attachment later (and it only took 5 hours of internet research to find it) I have photos. Yay!
I had a little time on my hands, so I attempted some artsy "wandering around in my garden" shots. Please forgive the wet hair; it's Monday.
A little more about the dress.
I tend to perpetually be on a mission to find/create a really well-fitted basic darted bodice that I can use over and over. I have a full bust for my frame size, and it poses some fitting challenges. I know princess-seamed styles tend to be easier to fit, but there is just something about a darted shape that looks more casual, and I like that for everyday dresses. For this project I chose New Look 6262. I planned to make adjustments before I even mocked it up.
I chose the bust size based on my high bust measurement of 34", then made a full bust adjustment (FBA) to add the bust room in while maintaining a smaller upper chest size. This helps to deal with the excessive amount of fabric I often get in the upper chest when I make the size that fits my full bust.
Here is my FBA. I slashed the pattern on the dart lines and also through the armscye and spread them to add room at the bust. I also added length in front; more bust to cover = more length needed. That extra room is then taken up by the front and side darts. After I slashed up and taped my pattern piece, I traced off a cleaner working copy.
I also altered the neckline. Instead of a straight V, I wanted a rounded one since I find that shape more flattering.
The first mockup was perfect through the shoulders and upper chest but tight through the bust and waist, so I added some room at the sides and then just dove in. I sewed this with the machine and finished all the seam allowances with the serger. Invisible zipper in the back.
For the hem, I used a neat trick I learned recently from my coworker Michele. I set the differential feed on my serger to the highest setting, so it would scrunch the fabric up a little. When I overlocked my hem edge this pulled in just the right amount of ease for the curved hem to lay nicely. Then I just folded it up and topstitched it.
Other changes: I hate facings so I finished the neckline with bias tape. I also added pockets; I never actually end up putting anything in them, but I do like having a place to stow my hands.
Things I love: The V-neck shape turned out perfectly, the neckline doesn't gape at all, and the skirt has precisely the right amount of fullness. The hem is so flat and smooth. The print is wonderfully light and fresh for summer.
There are definitely fitting tweaks I will make on the next version. The back bodice dips too low at the waist, the front vertical darts could be taken in slightly, and the bust point is still just a smidge too high. The pockets could also be slightly deeper, but I would need to set them higher in the seam so I could still reach the bottom. Altogether, none of these are deal-breakers.
So, one week and one new tripod attachment later (and it only took 5 hours of internet research to find it) I have photos. Yay!
I had a little time on my hands, so I attempted some artsy "wandering around in my garden" shots. Please forgive the wet hair; it's Monday.
A little more about the dress.
I tend to perpetually be on a mission to find/create a really well-fitted basic darted bodice that I can use over and over. I have a full bust for my frame size, and it poses some fitting challenges. I know princess-seamed styles tend to be easier to fit, but there is just something about a darted shape that looks more casual, and I like that for everyday dresses. For this project I chose New Look 6262. I planned to make adjustments before I even mocked it up.
I chose the bust size based on my high bust measurement of 34", then made a full bust adjustment (FBA) to add the bust room in while maintaining a smaller upper chest size. This helps to deal with the excessive amount of fabric I often get in the upper chest when I make the size that fits my full bust.
Here is my FBA. I slashed the pattern on the dart lines and also through the armscye and spread them to add room at the bust. I also added length in front; more bust to cover = more length needed. That extra room is then taken up by the front and side darts. After I slashed up and taped my pattern piece, I traced off a cleaner working copy.
I also altered the neckline. Instead of a straight V, I wanted a rounded one since I find that shape more flattering.
The first mockup was perfect through the shoulders and upper chest but tight through the bust and waist, so I added some room at the sides and then just dove in. I sewed this with the machine and finished all the seam allowances with the serger. Invisible zipper in the back.
For the hem, I used a neat trick I learned recently from my coworker Michele. I set the differential feed on my serger to the highest setting, so it would scrunch the fabric up a little. When I overlocked my hem edge this pulled in just the right amount of ease for the curved hem to lay nicely. Then I just folded it up and topstitched it.
Other changes: I hate facings so I finished the neckline with bias tape. I also added pockets; I never actually end up putting anything in them, but I do like having a place to stow my hands.
Things I love: The V-neck shape turned out perfectly, the neckline doesn't gape at all, and the skirt has precisely the right amount of fullness. The hem is so flat and smooth. The print is wonderfully light and fresh for summer.
There are definitely fitting tweaks I will make on the next version. The back bodice dips too low at the waist, the front vertical darts could be taken in slightly, and the bust point is still just a smidge too high. The pockets could also be slightly deeper, but I would need to set them higher in the seam so I could still reach the bottom. Altogether, none of these are deal-breakers.
