elizabeth_mn (![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
elizabeth_mn) wrote2015-06-20 11:27 am
elizabeth_mn) wrote2015-06-20 11:27 am
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So far
The bodice is together and I have been working on sleeves.
I made two sleeve mockups. The first was way too short and a little too full (apparently I have long gangling flappy arms?) so I added about 1.5" of length along the lengthen/shorten line, then I slashed the whole pattern piece along the vertical grainline and overlapped it about 3/4" at the top and 1/2" at the bottom.
Then I made the second sleeve mockup. Here it is.
I am just holding the front bodice edges together because this fabric shows every little pin mark.
Here is the back just because.
I had an aha! moment about fully-boned stays. My stays are half boned and through this thin fabric you can see every little bump and each bone and the space between. With fully boned stays, and very fine bones, I would imagine the surface is smoother, not ridges and valleys all over like half-boned ones.
I thought the sleeve pattern was good to go so I cut the sleeves and assembled them last night, then finished the ends this morning.
The seams are lapped and backstitched from the outside. The ends are finished with "point a rabattre sous la main" or edging stitch. Whenever mine looked kinda crappy I reminded myself that trim is going to cover up this part. For the darts I basted RS together then backstitched from the outside.
Not pictured: I have also put the skirt together. Two full width panels, just one seam in CB. I have turned under the front edges and hemmed them with a running stitch, with a finished hem of 1/4", not the wide facing given in the pattern. The bottom hem I will leave until I get the whole thing together and check the length, but again I will use a narrow allowance.
For the retrousse bit (I know that we no longer call this "polonaise" but can I just speak English and call them poofs?) the directions say to use a button and loop, but I think I will use internal ties like another Costume Close-Up gown because I don't have any pretty cord that I would want visible on the outside.
Thoughts on the J.P. Ryan pattern so far:
The Good: The silhouette and seam placement are flattering and seem period accurate. The pieces all fit together neatly. Everything is well marked. It's a simple pattern to make up. The bodice and sleeve fit were good.
The Bad: 5/8" seam allowances are huge! I find that I am doing a lot of trimming. Perhaps I ought to have made them smaller before cutting but I didn't like to mess around too much with an untried pattern. The hems and facings are likewise very wide.
I am ignoring the directions, mostly. They are not bad, necessarily. I mean, they make sense, but they are not using period construction techniques. The bag lining especially.
These patterns only come in one size, which is a huge pain in the ass if you are between sizes or tend to blend sizes between your bust and waist (I do). I guessed when I ordered, and I probably could have gone down a size. As it is, the alterations were pretty simple.
I made two sleeve mockups. The first was way too short and a little too full (apparently I have long gangling flappy arms?) so I added about 1.5" of length along the lengthen/shorten line, then I slashed the whole pattern piece along the vertical grainline and overlapped it about 3/4" at the top and 1/2" at the bottom.
Then I made the second sleeve mockup. Here it is.
I am just holding the front bodice edges together because this fabric shows every little pin mark.
Here is the back just because.
I had an aha! moment about fully-boned stays. My stays are half boned and through this thin fabric you can see every little bump and each bone and the space between. With fully boned stays, and very fine bones, I would imagine the surface is smoother, not ridges and valleys all over like half-boned ones.
I thought the sleeve pattern was good to go so I cut the sleeves and assembled them last night, then finished the ends this morning.
The seams are lapped and backstitched from the outside. The ends are finished with "point a rabattre sous la main" or edging stitch. Whenever mine looked kinda crappy I reminded myself that trim is going to cover up this part. For the darts I basted RS together then backstitched from the outside.
Not pictured: I have also put the skirt together. Two full width panels, just one seam in CB. I have turned under the front edges and hemmed them with a running stitch, with a finished hem of 1/4", not the wide facing given in the pattern. The bottom hem I will leave until I get the whole thing together and check the length, but again I will use a narrow allowance.
For the retrousse bit (I know that we no longer call this "polonaise" but can I just speak English and call them poofs?) the directions say to use a button and loop, but I think I will use internal ties like another Costume Close-Up gown because I don't have any pretty cord that I would want visible on the outside.
Thoughts on the J.P. Ryan pattern so far:
The Good: The silhouette and seam placement are flattering and seem period accurate. The pieces all fit together neatly. Everything is well marked. It's a simple pattern to make up. The bodice and sleeve fit were good.
The Bad: 5/8" seam allowances are huge! I find that I am doing a lot of trimming. Perhaps I ought to have made them smaller before cutting but I didn't like to mess around too much with an untried pattern. The hems and facings are likewise very wide.
I am ignoring the directions, mostly. They are not bad, necessarily. I mean, they make sense, but they are not using period construction techniques. The bag lining especially.
These patterns only come in one size, which is a huge pain in the ass if you are between sizes or tend to blend sizes between your bust and waist (I do). I guessed when I ordered, and I probably could have gone down a size. As it is, the alterations were pretty simple.
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Ooh! Looks lovely!! I'm in love with the color :)
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