fitting the kirtle/petticoat bodies
Jul. 28th, 2012 04:36 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png)
Last fitting of L’s petticoat bodies* before finishing. She was quite excited!
The bodice is boned with 1/4" steel (I really need to give German plastic a try sometime, though). It's interlined with good-quality muslin and the front is also lined with a layer of twill. The twill doesn't extend into the straps or the side seams, but is secured to the muslin. I plan to line it in plain cotton.
The bodice is just pinned together and the skirt is pinned on. Aside from shortening the sleeve and of course the hem, I'm happy with how it's looking and I'm not making any more changes.
I fully lined the skirt in black cotton and tucked a 6” strip of cotton batting at the top to pad the pleats. The silk and cotton stick to each other to no end, but I’m trying to think of this as a good thing; once I get them where I want them to be, they'll stay.
For the front skirt curve, I measured how deep the CF point is, then I measured how much of the skirt would be stitched to the curved portion of the bodice, then eyeballed the exact curve while I cut.
I want to machine-stitch the other sleeve (since the first was machined) then I plan to insert the lining by hand and do the eyelets by hand as well. The skirt and bodice will be joined by hand, of course, since I have no idea how you could even try to machine stitch cartridge pleats.
I will probably cop out and machine blind-hem the skirt instead of hand-hemming, but who knows? I might get inspired.
The bodice is boned with 1/4" steel (I really need to give German plastic a try sometime, though). It's interlined with good-quality muslin and the front is also lined with a layer of twill. The twill doesn't extend into the straps or the side seams, but is secured to the muslin. I plan to line it in plain cotton.
The bodice is just pinned together and the skirt is pinned on. Aside from shortening the sleeve and of course the hem, I'm happy with how it's looking and I'm not making any more changes.
I fully lined the skirt in black cotton and tucked a 6” strip of cotton batting at the top to pad the pleats. The silk and cotton stick to each other to no end, but I’m trying to think of this as a good thing; once I get them where I want them to be, they'll stay.
For the front skirt curve, I measured how deep the CF point is, then I measured how much of the skirt would be stitched to the curved portion of the bodice, then eyeballed the exact curve while I cut.
I want to machine-stitch the other sleeve (since the first was machined) then I plan to insert the lining by hand and do the eyelets by hand as well. The skirt and bodice will be joined by hand, of course, since I have no idea how you could even try to machine stitch cartridge pleats.
I will probably cop out and machine blind-hem the skirt instead of hand-hemming, but who knows? I might get inspired.
* terminology footnote: I am really not sure if I am using the right terms for this garment, since I am not an expert in this period. It's a boned bodice, it's a petticoat, it has sleeves, it's meant to have a gown worn over it. . . it's a sleeved petticoat bodies and/or kirtle?
no subject
Date: 2012-07-30 10:28 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-07-30 01:50 pm (UTC)