More Costume Details
Sep. 26th, 2012 02:17 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
elizabeth_mnLainey’s ensemble consisted of a shift, petticoat bodies, and gown.
The shift was hanky weight linen, cut with the usual side gores and underarm gussets, etc. I machine-sewed the shift with flat-felled and French seams; I hand-hemmed the plain round low neckline and the cuffs, so there’s no visible machine stitching when it’s worn with the dress.
The kirtle/petticoat bodies/underdress is really the super multi-tasking garment that does everything. All the shaping is here; there’s no stays or bumroll. The bodice is interlined throughout with fine plain cotton (either Moda premium muslin or Pimatex, I can’t remember) and the front only is also interlined with cotton twill. The musln and twill make the front boning channels, which I stitched before assembly. The bodice is boned with ¼” steel across the front about every ¾”, and also at the side seams and CB lacing. There is cotton quilt batting to pad the cartridge pleats at the side and back of the skirt. I machined most everything but hand-sewed where it shows, including the eyelets.
The petticoat bodies is silk noil fully lined in plain cotton. Those two stuck to each other like Velcro! It was tricky getting them to play nicely together but I think I triumphed eventually. I just had to spend about half an hour smoothing the skirt layers right before I trimmed and hemmed, then after that, the stickiness worked in my favor to keep everything together.
The gown is much simpler, not much structure at all. It’s only lined in the bodice, and only one piece of boning at each side of the CF. I used the same bodice pattern as the petticoat bodies but cut the armscyes deeper and the neckline slightly higher. I also cut some off the front CF edges because she really wanted it to lace with some gap, just for the look of it.
I used the same (totally cheater-y) twill tape loop lacing method as I did for F’s dress. I thought about using the Venetian ribbon lacing, and even went so far as to go into a panic hunting for the directions, but decided I wanted to have a crisscross lacing, not ladder lacing.
The gown is made of 100% linen, and the bodice is interlined in cotton twill and lined in plain cotton. It’s trimmed with two widths of black petersham ribbon, which I edge-stitched on by machine when I ran short of time. The stitching blends pretty well and also covers the topstitching from the lacing and hem. 3/4" ribbon runs around the entire perimeter: neckline, CF, and hem, with 1" ribbon just at the hem. The ribbon really made it come alive! It's amazing what a little trim can do.
The patterns for everything came from the book The Tudor Tailor. And all the fabric came from Treadle, of course!
I think she was pretty happy with her costume, and F enjoyed having her pal and Surrogate Auntie at the festival with us. She’s my dear friend and it was so nice to make something for her and to have another good reason to spend time together.
The shift was hanky weight linen, cut with the usual side gores and underarm gussets, etc. I machine-sewed the shift with flat-felled and French seams; I hand-hemmed the plain round low neckline and the cuffs, so there’s no visible machine stitching when it’s worn with the dress.
The kirtle/petticoat bodies/underdress is really the super multi-tasking garment that does everything. All the shaping is here; there’s no stays or bumroll. The bodice is interlined throughout with fine plain cotton (either Moda premium muslin or Pimatex, I can’t remember) and the front only is also interlined with cotton twill. The musln and twill make the front boning channels, which I stitched before assembly. The bodice is boned with ¼” steel across the front about every ¾”, and also at the side seams and CB lacing. There is cotton quilt batting to pad the cartridge pleats at the side and back of the skirt. I machined most everything but hand-sewed where it shows, including the eyelets.
The petticoat bodies is silk noil fully lined in plain cotton. Those two stuck to each other like Velcro! It was tricky getting them to play nicely together but I think I triumphed eventually. I just had to spend about half an hour smoothing the skirt layers right before I trimmed and hemmed, then after that, the stickiness worked in my favor to keep everything together.
The gown is much simpler, not much structure at all. It’s only lined in the bodice, and only one piece of boning at each side of the CF. I used the same bodice pattern as the petticoat bodies but cut the armscyes deeper and the neckline slightly higher. I also cut some off the front CF edges because she really wanted it to lace with some gap, just for the look of it.
I used the same (totally cheater-y) twill tape loop lacing method as I did for F’s dress. I thought about using the Venetian ribbon lacing, and even went so far as to go into a panic hunting for the directions, but decided I wanted to have a crisscross lacing, not ladder lacing.
The gown is made of 100% linen, and the bodice is interlined in cotton twill and lined in plain cotton. It’s trimmed with two widths of black petersham ribbon, which I edge-stitched on by machine when I ran short of time. The stitching blends pretty well and also covers the topstitching from the lacing and hem. 3/4" ribbon runs around the entire perimeter: neckline, CF, and hem, with 1" ribbon just at the hem. The ribbon really made it come alive! It's amazing what a little trim can do.
The patterns for everything came from the book The Tudor Tailor. And all the fabric came from Treadle, of course!
I think she was pretty happy with her costume, and F enjoyed having her pal and Surrogate Auntie at the festival with us. She’s my dear friend and it was so nice to make something for her and to have another good reason to spend time together.
no subject
Date: 2012-09-28 10:56 am (UTC)